Art materials are unique to every artist. We all have personal reasons why we prefer one brand/item over another. I would say the single biggest determining factor for most artists in choosing their equipment is their style of painting and what they want to achieve. Some of the questions I get asked the most is, "what brand of paint do you like best?" and "what is your favourite brand of watercolour brushes?"

My own first watercolour brushes were quite nasty, I knew it back then because my dad taught me to paint with sables. The shape was wrong and difficult, it didn’t hold much water and the bristles were stiff and flicky – sometimes I felt there was more paint on me than the painting (I hear you all laughing – stop that!! Xx). My excuse is that was accidental flicking (control yourselves!!). A problem I encountered was being encouraged to paint “Big” but all I had, all I could get, were small brushes – mama mia!! However, I was lucky to be a member of a great local art group through which I met fantastic artists and found my way to their workshops. Interestingly, they all used flat brushes – yay for me!!
  
Brushes: 

Selecting a watercolour brush can be a bit overwhelming especially when you visit an art supply store and see all the goodies!!  

I like to use a combination of both synthetic and natural hair brushes. I love the Daler Rowney Sapphires  and Silver Black Velvet and Princeton Neptune. I also have a variety of natural hair brushes from several different manufacturers like Da Vinci, Escoda and Rosemary.

My first flat brush was a 2 inch squirrel wash brush which cost $300. Since then I have also purchased the 1.5 inch and a 1 inch which I love so much!! They’re synthetic/squirrel blend, very soft and perfect for watercolour because they hold a lot of water and paint for washing and blocking-in and more paint when needed. Their softness also means an easier, more reliable glaze, they won’t lift colour while you’re trying to put it down. I use my 1 inch for about 95% small plein air work.

I also have synthetic flat brushes to hand, 1”, ¾”, ½” and ¼”. They are all different brands Daler Rowney system 3, W&N and da Vinci.

I use a da Vinci #6 squirrel mop, with a lovely fat belly and point, I can paint a complete small painting because of its versatility – fat brush strokes with the belly and detail marks with the point. It’s great for studio painting and en plein air. It has lovely long bristles and the ferrule is positioned to avoid scratch the paper. I also have a #4 but I use it less often.

My detail brushes are from Daler-Rowney, Sapphire S85. I always have #14 or #12, #10, #8, #6, #4 to hand. I love these brushes because they don’t have a point – they’re rounded. They are a sable/synthetic blend and hold lots of water and paint and make interesting shapes.
 
My own style of painting is traditional techniques x10!! I use very loose brushwork in the beginning of a painting then I add calligraphic detail marks toward the end of each painting. I prefer geometric shapes I can create with a flat brush over round brush shapes.
 
Paint: 

I always choose tube colours over pan colours. I've been using a combination of Winsor & Newton professional grade paint for close to 30 years, I started with Cotmans but quickly grew out of it as I discovered it’s limitations. I also love Schmincke but I don’t like their lids as they often stick and require time and additional muscle. Another brand I use is Holbein, although they have a bad rap for using many pigments in each colour, I have never found that to be a problem. I have tried many other brands but generally I have found them lacking compared to W&N or Schmincke. If I have one 5ml tube of W&N, I need 3 tubes of any other brand.

Paper:
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I prefer to paint on Arches cold press medium 300gsm 100% cotton rag. Arches is a company that has been around for a very long time and the quality is always consistent. 
For students and my studio “playing” I recommend Fabriano Artistico Cold press 300gsm 100% cotton rag, it is exhibition grade and takes a lot of punishment but is more affordable.
 

The materials you choose will have a lot to do with the style of your painting and your goals. I suggest doing some exploring on your own to see what YOU like best. In my experience it’s best to get recommendations from other watercolour painters who paint in a style you like. You may start out with one brand, but as your style develops you may find that a completely different type of brush, paper, or paint, is something that you like more.

Paint and paint often. Experiment and play with different types and brands of supplies. Eventually you will land on something that works best for you. 

Process strategies every watercolour painter needs to know!!

Have fun!!

With a new term of watercolour classes starting soon, here are a few simple tips to help you start your watercolour journey!!

​Always ...

1. Have plenty of drawing paper handy for practicing.
2. Take notes in class, always carry a notebook or sketchbook.
3. Squeeze out new tube paint at least weekly so that you don’t have to scrub at dry paint (aka bird-poo) and damage your brushes.
4. A white porcelain dinner plate is the best palette ever, use cling film to cover when you have finished.
5. OR use a palette with a lid to avoid dust and stray animal hairs in your pigment (my Bertie loves sitting in blue!!).
6. Prepare your brushes with a quick swill in water so they’re ready to load with paint.
7. Use a kitchen sponge or old tea towel to moderate the water content in your brush.
8. Keep a hand towel close-by to control stray drips of water from your hands.
9. Paint standing up for as long as possible.
10. Sit for more control when adding calligraphy and detailed strokes.
11. For tubes proving difficult to open, run the cap under hot water and then use pliers gently.
12. Practice drawing; if your shapes aren’t quite right your picture won’t look right.
13. Keep spare sheets of watercolour paper handy to practice washes, colour dropping, shapes and investigate new pigment before you venture onto your painting.
14. Make colour charts with your pigments – colour wheels, value scales, practice mixing greys and greens, opaque, staining and transparent pigments and brands.
15. Wash out and dry your brushes gently, lay them flat to dry.

 
 ciao bei pittori!!